The system unit with your own hands.

EPIGRAPH
+10 to ponuts schoolchildren get, sharing with peers tips about how they overclocked the machine up to 2-productivity, while in fact they shud even break the seal and remove the lid.(Although, for non-extreme overclocking it is not necessary to remove the lid, enough to go into the bios).
Lukomorye

Anticipating questions.
As some of the readers have most likely guessed, this is a sequel to the article "Hand held monitor". Represents a tame collection of repair basics seasoned author's ideas (all of the proposed, of course, tested and produces results). If you now cast a glance at the iron box under your desk, you notice that the device in it could take one of the first places in complexity (hi-tech) and the number of parts in a radius of a quarter)))
Yes, and do not write shit comments in the style of "Mnogabukafneasilyu", for I calmly smile and enjoy imagining the amount of money you osilit master), that he would just LOOK at the cause of failure when your home monster is dead. But because there is nothing to solder (and many will not be able to), the fault can be localized by yourself. Yes yes, the amount of three zeros for the arrival of the master in 80% of cases do not have to put at all. So...

Those who have no seal is dedicated

1. PREPARATION.
First you will need tools:
1 screwdriver (slotted or cross whatever)
1 tester (which knows how to measure the voltage and resistance, even voltmeter get, even my grandfather from the garage will do)
1 clerical knife

2. PLOMB.


In order to protect nerves, hands shaking - do not tear off!!!(but fear the wolves - do not go to the woods). Those who have, and who have decided:


1) We take a piece of paper
2) Sticker glue (from one-rouble gum will do, but the gum throw out)
3) Sliced with a box cutter
4) If the paper is glued and intact, go to the block, otherwise repeat the first three points.

3. EXTERNAL DIAGNOSTICS.

If the computer does not turn on at all:
1) Set the tester to measure resistance (limit 200 ohms)


1 probe to one leg of the plug, the other to the holes at the other end. In two cases the tester should show nothing, and in one case 0-20 Ohm.
Repeat the operation, should be exactly the same(two times silent, the third time 0-20).
This is called a continuity test. You must replace the cable if it is faulty. If your computer does not start (even though all the switches are ON and even the one on the back wall), then you are out of luck. The problem is in the power supply, but this is a separate work and the privilege of the radio.
The cause of the malfunction: You should not load the power supply for 300W with the latest video cards

If the fans are noisy.
The monitor should show the developers LOGOTYPE or flash brightly. And it's completely reassuring to see "no signal", so there's nothing wrong with the monitor.

Take off the side cover, select any available connector from the power supply (it's a metal box in the upper corner with a bunch of wires). Plastic white with 4 pins, it has 4 wires of different colors (but two middle wires in most PSU are black or white). If you don't have one, pull it from the drive.
Take a tester, and with the computer on, measure the voltage (set the limit of 20 volts).

You should be about the same as in the pictures. 5 and 12 volts. The voltage should be +/- 5%, otherwise it means that the PSU is faulty.

Next, locate the battery on the motherboard and remove it. It should supply 3V (2.87...3.13). If not, replace the battery.

So, PSU is intact, the battery is in place, let's go further...

4. IF THE EXTERNAL DIAGNOSTICS DID NOT HELP.

Check the built-in speaker in the system. It may be a small black cylinder or a small speaker, if you don't have one, get one!!! THE SPEAKER MUST BE PLUGGED IN!!!

Take out all the slots cards, remove the graphics card from the PCI (AGP) connector, remove the slots with the RAM, and disable the optical drive (hard drive can also be removed). Leave the PSU, mother, processor (with cooler).
Turn the power on. You should hear a squeak. This BIOS (basic I/O system). In short, it's where your computer starts. So the mother of the processor alive.(henceforth motherboard, motherboard, CPU, video card-VCPU)
Next, stampede to his friend and googling Inet on "BIOS signals."(There are different bios specify which BIOS you have Award BIOS, Phoenix BIOS, etc.) and, accordingly, how many beeps speakers about what they say
.
(For example: three short beeps - fault of the video card, etc. ...) This is not a spoiler, and you can find in the Inet.

Now one by one all plugged in each time starting. BIOS will say what is faulty. (Well usually a videocard, for it is not necessary to play at high settings if you have not provided competent cooling of office vidyuha)

5. WHETHER THE FAULT IS THE MOTHERBOARD OR THE PROCESSOR.
Stand on a rubber mat, hand in a flower pot or wrap a thin wire, and the other end into the ground, or to a nail in a concrete wall.
Taking off the proc. You will need a VERY soft sponge.(cotton wool will not work) Lightly moisten and put it on the prots. Do not dare to put it on top. And in general, these operations (if you dare)))) should perform as a ceremony at the altar meticulously / carefully. Then blow it with a hair dryer, (the sample can lie upside down on a table) kicking out the pets, and preferably all ... After all the assembly back. SUPER MEGA TAKE CARE!!!(You'd better find some childish FAG for assembling coolers, the main thing: you can not put pressure on the processor) If you manage to bend the foot, use a needle from a syringe and straighten.

Please don't plug in the cooler. Switching it on. YOU HAVE 3 SECONDS (MAX)!!! HOWEVER (although Intel guarantees a lot of thermal protection, don't believe it.)
If it heats up ok, if not the last test is the last one.

If previous step did not help (no indication of abnormal operation), you are left with 2 options.
1) To replace the processor or motherboard. Logically it will immediately become clear what is faulty.

2) If you have no CPU, I describe my way, which has already helped me 2 times.
Take everything apart again, and the CPU too (i.e. only the motherboard and power supply are left). Let's try to determine the potential malfunction of the motherboard. (

3) Go back to your friend and google "PCI COLLECTION" "AGP COLLECTION" "RAM MODULE COLLECTION" "Socket COLLECTION". If you are not looking for it try to find the word "DISPLAY/PLAY" You should find the drawing of slots or sockets and tables with different marks, in particular they will show on what pins of the slot (metal things sticking out of the plastic on the board) what voltage should be.

For example: +12VDC - 12 volt. You may need to touch GND - the common wire, with the black dipstick of the tester to it. With the red dipstick you may test all pins that have to have voltage (+12, +5, +3.3, +1.6). If at least one of it is not (make sure that it is the same pin), then congratulations you found out that it is faulty mother. Fixing it comes down to finding a "soldering friend" who will show you the stabilizers, find a replacement and solder a new one. By the way in more than half of the cases they burn just them))))If

it did not help, then you are left with the first method))))

6. LETTER.

As you will notice the simplest tips are arranged in order of increasing difficulty/quantity of time required. Where to get to in testing each must decide for themselves. Cases where a neat user couldn't cope with a computer can be counted on the fingers of two hands and maybe feet. The rest millions of variants of troubleshooting can be eliminated by yourself. The article can be useful as a complete beginner ironworker, as well as people who already have a little experience.

Thank you for your attention.

PS: There is an idea to write the last part "Peripherals with your own hands". About mice/keys and how sellers of headphones sometimes trick us... In general, write it down if it makes sense.